What we know from living here. One thing at a time, written down properly: what is open when, where the crowds are not, and the part nobody puts in writing.
21 September 2026
Which document to start from, where the civil records actually are and why they are free, how to write to the comune, and the honest truth about what happens when you finally stand in the piazza.
21 September 2026
Large parts of the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia shut from November to March. You can still book the room. Everything around it may well be closed. An honest table of what runs and what stops, and where we send people instead.
The long version of that table, free: what is open and what is shut month by month, region by region, and the weeks we would avoid.